The ingredients list is certainly brief: one finely chopped onion, g rice he uses carnaroli , a glass of white wine, 2. I start with the arborio, remembering to turn the heat up once I've added the rice to the softened onion, and checking for the tell-tale hiss when I pour in the wine.
It takes 20 minutes to soften, which must be a personal record — Giorgio sets alarm clocks for new chefs in his kitchen, but even he can only do it in The results aren't too shabby either: the vigorous beating at the end turns it from a wet rice dish into something far more glamorously glossy. In comparison to the carnaroli, which I make next, however, it's dense and sticky — apparently because it has more surface starch.
Carnaroli for me from now on then. Rice sorted, I put a heavy-based pan on to a low heat, and consider the question of fat. Legendary Italian food writer Anna del Conte believes there's only one option when it comes to risotto: "If you don't want butter, eat something else. To me, it tastes the same as the original carnaroli recipe, so in the interests of keeping the ingredient list down, I plump for butter in my next experiment, which I hope is going to save me a lot of tedious stirring in the future.
In his book, The Perfect … food writer Richard Erlich makes a case for a more hands-off approach to risotto — pouring in a good glug of stock, rather than usual cautious ladleful, then leaving it for as long as it takes you to prepare a salad, or grate the cheese, for example, before going over to top it up.
It is only towards the end of the cooking process, he says, that you have to pay it a bit more attention. This would be liberating, except for the fact that I've already grated my cheese, in accordance with the suggestion that the real secret of a good risotto is having everything ready before you begin.
So I just stand there and watch it, with the girariso held firmly behind my back. Although I'm sneaking in a good few pokes every time I add the stock, I notice that the liquid isn't as pearly in colour as it has been for the other three, which suggests there isn't much in the way of starch coming out.
Even given an extra good beating with my trusty new friend, the results aren't quite as creamy as the others, and although I've been careful to try and get it to the same stage of al dente, the rice seems firmer somehow. Bearing this in mind, I've don't hold out much hope for my final recipe , which throws caution to the wind, and dispenses with the stirring completely. On the other hand, Simon Hopkinson claims it's the second-best risotto he's ever eaten.
The chef responsible, he explains, one Toni Vianello, insisted the mantecare was the important bit when it came to risotto making: 'it guaranteed an immaculate, homogenous mass of rice, broth, cheese if appropriate and butter. Skipping it, [Toni] said, was the reason why many risotti miserably fail, with the rice falling out of suspension and ending up surrounded by a pool of seeping broth. Toni's risotto follows the same well-worn path as Locatelli's, up until the point where the stock is added when, with a fine disregard for convention, he instructs me to pour it all in at once, bring it to a simmer, then cover the pot and pop it in a moderate oven for 15 minutes.
When I uncover it to check the rice is cooked, I'm not sure what to expect — it looks worryingly dry. I pop in the butter and cheese, leave it for a couple of minutes, then commence 'beating everything together like merry hell'.
The results are surprising — glossy and unctuous, and studded with plump, distinct grains of carnaroli. It's delicious … but I'm not sure it's a real risotto. For a start, it's too easy. Also, the texture of the rice seems wrong here — it's got a touch of the pilaff. I'd probably make it again if I had something in the oven anyway, but otherwise it smacks a bit of cheating.
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Email to a friend. Once the ingredients are in the pan on an extremely low heat cook for averagely 40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes to prevent burning. After averagely 40 minutes add your sugar and cinnamon the reason for adding your cinnamon late is because, The longer you cook cinnamon the stronger its flavour becomes and you dont want to overpower the dish too much with cinnamon.
Then serve with either Jam or creme fraiche.
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