It is always a calculated risk to use frame sliders but the risks can be mitigated by diligent research and engineering. Frame Mounted Sliders - In-Direct To address some of the concerns owners may have about modification of the fairing, some manufacturers have opted for a design that allows for the slider to mount onto an offset bracket that then mounts onto the frame. This offset introduces a whole new set of variables into the mix.
Depending on the degree of the offset, impact forces now include amplified torque stresses which will be applied to the frame mounting points. Offset brackets will need to be of beefier construction, but not so beefy as to stay intact during an impact while severely damaging the frame mounting points.
This is often the most costly type of slider configuration as most brackets require ingenious CNC work and design. In some situations employment of a bracket is a calculated risk, in others it is just not feasible. No cut sliders are attractive to most bikers so do your homework and ask the manufacturer questions before you buy them.
This method is by far the strongest available as impact forces are allowed to be distributed over a much larger area. This is also the second more costly design as these long bolts are quite expensive to manufacture. The design must be structurally strong enough not to break off when encountering the various types of impact forces but not so strong that these forces would be transmitted entirely to and damage the considerably more costly frame mounting points.
In other words you want to sacrifice your slider before your fairing and then your frame in that order. It's a delicate balance and there is no sure way to ensure that any one design will accomplish this desired goal. The one long bolt vs double threaded rod argument. Why some manufacturers use a double threaded rod with nuts at both ends to secure the frame sliders is not immediately obvious. Despite the fact that these rods are much more costly to make. The answer is really quite simple and the reasons quite compelling.
This is very hard to do as we have observed some SV's that went down on track days. Frame Slider Material: The choice of material used for the frame slider should be a balance of the following 3 requirements: Abrasion Resistance - the material should be hard enough to be able to slow the bike down in a slide and not be totally worn down to the bolt half way through a slide Structural Strength - the material should be strong but not brittle and snap off too easily on impact Energy Absorption-the material used should have some energy absorbing properties but not be so hard that all impact forces are transmitted to the mounting points or fasteners solid steel or aluminum materials are examples of non-energy absorbing materials.
Most high quality frame sliders today are made of some kind of nylon or other for energy absorption and with aluminum inserts for strengthening of the fastening points. If the slider you are considering does not have internal aluminum or metal collars they will not srong enough to withstand any real impact.
Nylon or Delrin by itself is just simply not strong enough to be held down by an M10 or M12 bolt. The range of nylon types, with different levels of abrasion resistance and "brittleness" used is also quite varied. Fasteners and Components: Quality of materials used, aesthetics and quality of workmanship should also be considered when choosing the right frame slider for your bike. Look for high quality anodized steel bolts. The reason that a solid material like metal is bad for sliders, is that they dont offer any relief to a sliding bike.
The rigid material can actually grab the pavement and cause the bike to flip, causing additional damage. Ideally, you want a nylon blend material that is strong, but is also able to wear down the slider material as it slides across asphalt. A proper slider will do exactly that The primary goal of a frame slider is to keep your frame from being damaged during a drop or slide.
A common misconception is that a frame slider will protect the bike from ANY damage when dropped. A frame slider should stick out just enough to protect the main frame and possibly the engine, any further, and the slider becomes obtrusive.
Frame protection is vital in keeping your bike rideable home, and to keep your bike from being totalled out due to frame damage. Designed to fit into the front axle opening of your forks, Fork Sliders are an important piece of the protection package. With motorcycle forks today being high tech and adjustable, the cost of replacement forks is extremely high. With the added chance of scratching a wheel during a drop, the fork slider is an unsung hero. Typically an easy part to install, a good set of fork sliders is peace of mind that your bike deserves.
Basically if the bike tips over, you dont want the fork lower or the wheel lip to be able to contact the ground. Very similar to fork sliders, the rear axle sliders are designed to offer protection to the rear axle area of the bike. Swingarm, Wheel, etc. While its true, that in an exhaust side crash, it is most likely going to be the exhaust that keeps the rear wheel off the ground, a rear axle slider can add valuable protection to the bike.
Rather than relying on a small tab welded to the swingarm, they use the axle to help distribute crash loads, utilizing more of the swingarm's supported area for the task. Axle sliders can be installed on the front fork, and their counterpart, swingarm sliders, can be installed for some rear peace of mind.
Axle block sliders are a derivative of the swingarm style and integrate the rear axle into the overall protection plan. The axle and swingarm types of slider are also available as spool sliders, providing even more function.
Spools are small items shaped like their namesakes that serve as lifting points for paddock stands. Keep in mind there are other types of protection, like case guards, if you want to protect more than just your chassis. Counterintuitively, hardware made of mild steel often performs well to fasten sliders, due to its propensity to yield when force is applied.
Common hardware grades in the United States are grades 2, 5, and 8, with strength increasing with number. Bolts are made stronger through the amount of carbon in the alloy, as well as the specific heat treatment of the fastener. Bolt hardness is gained at the expense of flexibility. A strong bolt is also usually fairly brittle. Lower grades of hardware may deform or break, failing to protect the bike. There are no right or wrong answers when it comes to protecting your bike.
However, understanding the range of materials and designs that exist will aid in the selection of a part that will be best tailored to an individual riding style. Navigation Menu. Wish List. Please reference our International Shipping Policy for details. International Shipping Policy. Self-Service Returns. Doesn't fit?
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